Dowanee from scratch

She floats in and out of the vagaries of my child­hood mem­o­ry, omnipresent but insub­stan­tial, a tow­er­ing phan­tom. But she was always there. She lived in our house from the time I was born until we moved from Drex­el Hill to Floris­sant, Mis­souri when I was sev­en­teen. For all intents and pur­pos­es, she seemed to despise and deride my moth­er and to fear and seethe against my father. Her rai­son d’etre was focused on under­min­ing the influ­ence they tried to wield upon their chil­dren, and I nev­er detect­ed a moral com­pass attached to her efforts. If they pulled one way, she pulled the oth­er. Come to think, mom and dad very sel­dom seemed to be pulling in a com­mon direc­tion, so cumu­la­tive­ly we were being drawn and quar­tered, minus one.

She adored her son Hafis–in her eyes he could do no wrong. This was the man who flat­ly reject­ed any over­tures my mom made to have Dowa­nee come vis­it or live with him for any length of time.

I know my par­ents con­sid­ered her the bur­den they had to bear, but how could we have sur­vived with­out her? As I remem­ber, she did every­thing. The cook­ing, the dish­es, the clean­ing, the laundry–I can still envi­sion a wash­board and a large buck­et, swear to God. I’ll bet I nev­er woke up before her in our entire life together.

Her spe­cial­ty was child­care, a unique brand. Most par­ents either vehe­ment­ly deny or des­per­ate­ly try to hide that they have favorites. Dowa­nee felt no such com­punc­tion. The first­born, my sis­ter Miri­am, was the light of her life. Pag­ing through our ear­li­est fam­i­ly pho­to albums, it is almost impos­si­ble to find a pic­ture where Miri­am is not being held by Dowa­nee. We oth­ers laugh about it, because it is hard to fine one of us where we are! My sis­ter Nail­la describes her rela­tion­ship with Dowa­nee as one of abo­rig­i­nal hatred. My father called Nail­la his “Black Wal­nut” because she had a dark­er skin than the rest of us, and he said she looked the most like the young Ascia. Appar­ent­ly, that did not score points with Dowanee.

Dowanee’s native tongue was some­thing called Russ­ian Tar­tar, though I was recent­ly told we are Tatars, not Tar­tars. Fish and chips. Only Miri­am became flu­ent in Tar­tar. I can remem­ber them chat­ter­ing non­stop to one anoth­er, com­plete­ly incom­pre­hen­si­ble to me, though I think my moth­er under­stood most of it. A few phras­es remain with me: Gehen­nam deh, which I’m pret­ty sure means Go to hell. I recall she had a pet name for me: Shai­tan. (I think that one is self-explana­to­ry.) Ullee ullee itzam boolah was the begin­ning of a lullaby–I’d love to know what that means. Since her name was Hadi­cia Salich, I’m sus­pect that Dowa­nee means grandma.

Oh how the woman could cook! The Rus­sians are genius­es with flour and meat. Per­o­mesh and per­osh­kee involved vari­a­tions of wrap­ping ham­burg­er in dough and fry­ing it. Lamb meat pies were my all-time favorite, and I select­ed them as the main course of my birth­day din­ner for about ten years in a row. Piel­manie was a soup involv­ing ham­burg­er wrapped in dough and cooked in chick­en broth. A few years before my moth­er died, we spent a New Year’s Eve togeth­er mak­ing and eat­ing piel­manie. Noth­ing trig­gers nos­tal­gia like food. I can­not stom­ach the taste of beets, but put a good bowl of borscht in front of me and I am rav­en­ous. Dowanee’s break­fasts were as sat­is­fy­ing as her din­ners. Apple pan­cakes, egg/cottage cheese blintzes, the per­fect soft-boiled egg–memorable delights that leave me won­der­ing why I don’t scour the coun­try­side for them today. My daugh­ter took us to a Russ­ian restau­rant in Toron­to a few years ago, and it was some of the best restau­rant food I’ve had.

Though most of Dowanee’s munif­i­cence was direct­ed toward Miri­am, the rest of us would occa­sion­al­ly find her favor. There was a Woolworth’s 5 & 10 cent store with­in walk­ing dis­tance of our house. If you were the one to accom­pa­ny her, you’d come away with some kind of reward, so we would vie for that priv­i­lege. Once when I was her escort, I select­ed a bag of mar­bles as my gift. We were stopped at the door as we were exit­ing, and my bag of mar­bles was pulled from Dowanee’s rather large purse. We were tak­en to a room in the back of the store, and when my mom final­ly showed up, she was told that Dowa­nee was no longer allowed to shop at Woolworth’s unless my mom accom­pa­nied her. Dowa­nee was a klepto!

When we moved from Drex­el Hill to Floris­sant, Mis­souri before my senior year of high school, Dowa­nee was exiled to the West Coast. She did not move in with Uncle Hafe but got her own apart­ment in Burlingame, a good hour away from him. I don’t know what the finan­cial arrange­ment was, but it wouldn’t sur­prise me to learn my par­ents picked up the entire tab.

I couldn’t say where I fell in the hier­ar­chy of Dowanee’s affec­tions. Cer­tain­ly not one of her favorites, but I can recall no grudge or antipa­thy ema­nat­ing from her. I sup­pose we remained hazi­ly aware of each other’s exis­tence. In the spring of 1969, I dropped out of the Uni­ver­si­ty of Mis­souri and hitch­hiked to San Fran­cis­co to check out the hip­pies. After a painful­ly uncom­fort­able four or five nights at my uncle’s house, I decid­ed that the West Coast wasn’t for me, and I hitch­hiked down to Burlingame on my way back to Mis­souri. I spent a week­end with Dowa­nee. Stunned by how over­joyed she was to see me, I was also struck by how dark she kept her apart­ment, how lone­ly she was, and how well she treat­ed me. When I said good­bye and slung my duf­fel bag over my shoul­der in her door­way, she cried. I cried too. I nev­er saw her again.

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